7.23.2007

A Shitty Day

We left our windowless, A.C.less room about an hour too early this morning to make it to the train station on time. It was just before five in the morning and already the horns were Honking and the rickshaws were out in full force. We caught a ride for about thirty cents a piece, which I'm told might have been too much, passing the sleeping homeless and early rising merchants. By the time we hit the station ten minutes later the city seemed wide awake. Somewhat. The station is open-air and could easily be described as Post-Apocalyptic. Broken tile floors with sleeping bodies (or I hope they were sleeping) littered about and in every other available surface the people were already moving back and forth. This was just after five. We made our way to the platform with an hour to spare. Nothing to do but either confront or ignore the thousands of stares coming from all sides. I had my eye on one drowsy looking stick of a man with his back to me when I noticed that he was actually peeing on the platform. And then he stood there. And the people were still staring at us. Then a few minutes later the stick man took hold of his pant leg and began to shake until pieces of shit fell out near his ankle. And he remained standing there. And the people were still staring at us. At us! He took a few more minutes, slipped out a few more lumps, got some on his feet, and then walked three feet to a pillar and scraped the shit from between his toes. I was too entranced to notice anyone staring at me. Later someone slipped in it.

As the train rolled along we passed the type of slums that I've only seen in National Geographic or Time. Such a sad display of existence that I couldn't attach an emotion to it. I just watched with me eyes stuck. And then we started to pass "The Poopy Fields". Andrew had forewarned us and it was everything I had expected. Men pooping everywhere. Some hidden in the grass, others squatting directly on the tracks. It seemed ludicrous, like I was in a perverse Dr. Seuss book. They stared in our windows as we passed with their pants down and.... You know what, I'm just gonna stop there. It did seem to take the edge of the rest of the sights. What I mean is that multiple men pooping outdoors in "The Poopy Fields" is so very funny.

3 comments:

Anonymous said...

all i can say is wow. i finally got to your blog this morning, my macbook is having problems and in the shop so im on a borrowed PC. glad to see you made it and i forgot that you would be there already after the past few days since you left. for some reason i thought your flight would take forever:) awesome you hit the streets right away!
its really strange..im sitting here in the comfort of an ACed room with the shades drawn with my daughter just waking up and all my western world worries are in my head typing away on this laptop. and your detailing a guy crapping his pants in a third world train station. GOD knows what that guy ate. and the poopy fields...the world is indeed larger and scarier than i can ever imagine. im looking forward to your blog big time. but im very curious of what you find in the people over there and what you find in general..will it be just poor people, a better type of humanity, answers...more of the same thing just in a different region, is there anything better in india? im really asking myself all of this too..

i hope you dont mind my long comments, i really cant help it:)

you+cowstume jumping in the Ganges= sweet

theyll prolly worship you too!

john

Anonymous said...

And you thought that the guy hustling tire tubes was pretty bad.

H

Anonymous said...

True story: once when I shit my pants while on vacation at Kalaloch (yeah, fuck all you that claim to have never shit your pants before -- try having Crohn's Disease) as I was glumly trudging up to camp to collect a change of clothes before I went and washed off, some guy noticed me and my state of filth and made an open-mouthed, fishy gaping. When his look changed to one of disgust I said, "Hey, how's it going?" to which he automatically responded, "Good, you?" To which of course I responded, "Not too shabby."

It's going to be India's new motto I think. India: Not Too Shabby.

-Sunday